Produce farmers need to weigh in on proposed FDA Food Safety Act

On January 10th, I posted that the Food and Drug Adminstration (FDA) had issued a press release initiating public reviewwilliam and mary reunion 003 of the proposed rule for produce safety: Standards for the Growing, Harvesting, Packing, and Holding of Produce for Human Consumption. The comment period was supposed to end in May but it has been extended to September 16th. Maryland farmers need to weigh in.

Food recalls are constantly in the news. The FDA press release noted that nearly 130,000 people are hospitalized and 3,000 die from their foodborne illness each year, but our global industrial food system has made it very difficult to track down the causes. A typical example is a recent one from Oregon where it was reported that “The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA), Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), and State and local officials are investigating a multi-state outbreak of Hepatitis A illnesses potentially associated with Townsend Farms Organic Anti-Ox​idant Blend, a frozen blend containing pomegranate seed​ mix.”

Townsend Farms Inc. is not a small family farm. It is a full-service grower, processor and distributor of berries and other fruit. Its network encompasses farms across the United States and around the world. As I understand it, the outbreak was not caused by fruit grown in Oregon. It was grown in Europe.

The case illustrates how hard it can be to track down food borne illnesses in this complex,

CDC: Finding the Point of Contamination and Source of the Food

CDC: Finding the Point of Contamination and Source of the Food

industrial agricultural economy. The tracking often begins at the local  environmental health office and/or the  state environmental health specialists. For widespread or severe outbreaks, “They often involve state environmental health specialists or other state public health officials and investigators from the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA), and Center for Disease Control (CDC).”

In his April 8th blog post, Brian Snyder, Executive Director of  Pennsylvania Association for Sustainable Agriculture, pointed out the new Food Safety Modernization Act is a result of the the September 11th terrorist acts. The FDA realized that, considering the way food is now produced, terrorists might use food as another way to attack U.S. citizens.

How does all this relate to small farms? One would assume that food from small farms would not be the first place that terrorists would look to harm U.S. citizens. After all, targeting small farms would be difficult and inefficient. Likewise, any foodborne illness from food directly sourced to consumers or restaurants would be relatively easy to track. I follow the news pretty carefully, and I don’t often hear of cases of foodborne illness from small farms. Where is the data to show that food from small farms is a significant safety risk?

Small farms earning gross sales of less than $25,000 per year are not covered by the proposed rule, but that is hardly enough to earn a living. There is also a “qualified exemption” for farms earning gross sales of less than $500,000, which applies modified requirements. Maryland farmers should review this exemption and the modified requirements carefully.

For all farms with an annual food sales of $500,000 or more, the new rules cover the following major areas:

  • Worker training and health and hygiene
  • Agricultural water
  • Biological soil amendments of animal origin
  • Domesticated and wild animals
  • Equipment, tools, and buildings
  • Sprouts

The proposed produce rule covers “most fruits and vegetables while they are in their raw or natural (unprocessed) state. It would not apply to raw agricultural commodities that are rarely consumed raw, those produced for personal or on-farm consumption, and (with certain documentation) those destined for commercial processing, such as canning, that will adequately reduce microorganisms of public health concern.”

If you are not concerned or overwhelmed after reading the regulations, I will be surprised. No doubt, all food handlers must be aware of and practice good food safety procedures, but to what extent are small farms really part of the problem that the rule is trying to solve? Isn’t it really due to an anonymous global food industry where it is very difficult to trace the source of tainted food? Does the proposed rule get to the root of the problem? Where is the data to show the extent that foodborne illnesses are caused by agricultural water, biological soil amendments, domesticated animals, or tools and how much will it cost small farms to comply? Will the regulations actually reduce the number of foodborne illnesses or will they primarily deter the formation of small farms that are needed to supply a growing demand for locally-sourced food?

The paperwork proposed to improve food safety in what has become an international food system may never produce food as good and as safe as food that comes from a relationship between a local producer and  regular customers. Wendell Berry says it best, “As you shorten the distance between the consumer and producer, you increase the consumer’s power to know and influence the quality of food.”

Please take the time to comment on the regulations. Your input will provide an important perspective for those who will make the final decision. The National Sustainable Agriculture Coalition has great advice for making comments on the draft rule. Go to its Speak Out Today! page and weigh in.

Posted in Farmers Markets, National Ag News, New Ideas in Farming, Organic farming, So. Maryland Topics, Sustainable Farmers, Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Recruiting new Maryland farmers – part 3

IMAG0110In the first series post, I described marketing and climatic advantages that make Maryland an attractive location for new agricultural ventures. In last week’s post, I highlighted land preservation and regulatory efforts to support farming. A few tough issues remain for identifying and recruiting enough Maryland farmers for the future. In this, the third and final post on recruiting new Maryland farmers, I discuss ag in the schools, access to farmland, and educating the consumer.

Many millennials seem to have a genuine interest in farming, but most have not had access to farmer education. A few are pursuing the programs outlined in part 2 once they leave high school or college despite the lack of access to ag in the classroom. Exposure to a career in agriculture should be introduced much earlier in life.

Back in the 1970s, many school systems throughout the country stopped offering agricultural classes and Future Farmers of America programs. I recall that 1977 was the last year that the Calvert County School System offered ag classes. The graduates of the last FFA classes include many prominent County farmers today, such as Maryland Department of Agriculture Secretary Earl (Buddy) Hance, Walt Wells, and Wilson Freeland. When ag in the classroom ended, few young people considered agriculture as a career. That is why I am so pleased that agriculture is being re-introduced in many of the Maryland school systems, including 40 high schools, with the assistance of the Maryland Agricultural Education Foundation, Inc.

Another challenge for those interested in farming is finding a place to farm. ag lease doc  Maryland Extension programs provide ag training regardless of land ownership. However, the question remains, how can you farm if you do not own or lease land? In the last year, University of Maryland Extension has been making it easier to work through the farmland lease process. A new guide, Agricultural Leasing in Maryland, has been developed to assist land seekers and land owners address key issues to help insure  an amicable and successful working relationship.

Still, if you lack experience in farming,  it will be a challenge to find banks who will lend you money, or land owners who will lease you land. Already, a few nonprofits are stepping up to identify incubator sites for new farmers to learn their trade and start their businesses. Once the new farmers establish their business plans and resumes, they will be able to compete for land to lease or purchase.

The final issue is educating the consumer. By nature, we are all looking for good deals–for the most product at the lowest cost. Food shopping is no different. In the last 60 years, Americans have been blessed with lower cost food, which has allowed them to spend more on other items. In 1929, Americans spent 22.7% of household disposable income on food. In 2011, the number had dropped to around 11%. The industrialization of farming and advances in genetics and pesticide management have helped to reduce food costs and more recently trade agreements have introduced lower priced farm products as the food industry has globalized. Today, 39% of all fruits sold in America are imported and about 20% of all vegetables are imported, according to the USDA.

In Maryland,shorten the distance locally sourced food is worth the price. The recent collapse of the clothing manufacture facility in Bangladesh has reminded us of  the consequences of making “cost” the primary determinant on purchasing from the global markets. Trade agreements rarely consider labor or environmental standards.  In addition to touting the freshness and flavor of the food produced, farmers  need to inform consumers about how their products are produced and under what conditions. In Maryland, the advantages of purchasing locally sourced food are reinforced at the Maryland’s Best website, as  part of the Maryland  Farm to School Programs and during the Buy Local Challenge issued every year, during the last full week of July.

While more work is needed with respect to ag education, access to land and educating the consumer, Maryland seems to be on the right track to assist in the establishment of the next generation of Maryland farmers.

Posted in Farmers Markets, food hubs, New Farmers, New Ideas in Farming, So. Maryland Topics, Sustainable Farmers, Uncategorized | 1 Comment

Recruiting new Maryland farmers – part 2

strawberriesIn last week’s post, I described marketing advantages that make Maryland an attractive location for new agricultural ventures. Living within or near the fourth largest metropolitan area in the country with the highest median income has its advantages. The residents have a $26 Billion food budget to spend! And soils and climate yield a great variety of food products.

But what about the regulatory environment and farmer support?

Preserving Farmland First

Nationwide, one will find that urbanizing states lose their farmland to residential and commercial development. While Maryland has experienced its own sprawl, it has been proactive in preserving farmland. Over recent decades, the state and counties have developed some of the most innovative land preservation programs in the country and protected over 800,000 acres of farmland via easement donation, easement purchase, transferable development rights and other tools. The state’s 30+ Land Trusts play a vital role. An example is the Eastern Shore Land Conservancy which works to  preserve and sustain the farms and communities of the Eastern Shore.

Most counties have also improved their comprehensive plans and zoning regulations to protect their farmland resources while encouraging growth in designated areas with facilities to support such growth. In sum, Maryland continues to have one of the most successful farmland preservation efforts in the country.

Learning to live with Non-farm Neighbors

The plethora of new residents in a vibrant metropolitan region can be a blessing and a curse for farmers.subdivision areal  New residents can mean new customers, but they can be nosy neighbors who do not understand or appreciate the noises, dust, or odors associated with various farming practices.

The locally-sourced food movement, which has grown and flourished in the last two decades,  caught zoning departments by surprise across the nation. Zoning regulations are intended to protect health, safety and welfare of residents and to protect use and enjoyment of properties. However, few counties had zoning regulations that properly addressed  on-farm value-added food operations, farmers markets, wineries, agri-tourism, etc. Farmers struggled to get permits for farm products that customers wanted. The traffic generated by creameries, corn mazes, etc. raised the hackles of neighbors expected to retire to a bucolic existence when they bought their place in the country.

Recognizing the importance of farming to their economy and culture, most counties have  revised their zoning ordinances in the last few years to specifically allow for roadside stands, farm kitchens, wineries, breweries, corn mazes, etc. along with conditions that help mitigate the impacts on neighboring properties. To learn more about each county’s plans and regulations for farming, visit the zoning tutorial.

The state has also eased regulations to allow on-farm wineries and breweries and eased and streamlined regulations for on-farm acidified foods production. The state adopted enabling Right-to-Farm legislation and most counties have adopted their own Right-to-Farm ordinances, which provide some protection for farmers from nuisance complaints. Right-to-Farm ordinances often include a local conflict resolution team to address land use conflicts before they reach the courts, and the Maryland Department of Agriculture also has its Conflict Resolution Service.

Assisting with Farm Production and Marketing 

farm equipmentThe cost of starting a farming production operation can be steep. Federal, state, regional and county agencies can help ease the path to profitability. In addition to the wide variety of USDA loans and Farm Credit loans, Maryland formed the Maryland Agricultural & Resource-Based Industry Development Corporation (MARBIDCO), which provides loans and grants to farmers, foresters and seafood producers. The website includes the 2012 Annual Report and available grants and loans. The Southern Maryland Agricultural Development Commission was formed to help tobacco farmers transition to other crops, and it provides grants and support to farmers in the five county region. In addition, eight counties rent farm equipment to reduce upfront capital costs for farmers.

beginning farmer successNew and beginning farmer training comes from many sources. In 2012, the University of Maryland Extension received a Beginning Farmer and Rancher Grant from the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) and has started Beginning Farmer Success, a partnership with University of Maryland Eastern Shore (UMES), Future Harvest CASA (FH CASA), and Southern Maryland Agricultural Development Commission (SMADC). Through this collaborative effort, Maryland county extension agents and the University of Maryland Eastern Shore provide beginning farmer training classes, farm business planning and field trips. Future Harvest CASA provides a “shoulder-to-shoulder” Beginner Farmer Training Program and partners with Farm Alliance-Baltimore and Real Food Farm to hold an Urban Farm Series. Southern Maryland Agricultural Development Commission maintains the Maryland FarmLINK website and has an on-line mentoring program and a Mentor Match program. For 2013, the Mentor Match program will focus on assisting beginning farmers interested in vegetables, wine grapes, agritourism, pasture poultry and rabbits.

Many other organizations are providing vital services to new and beginning farmers. For  example, the Maryland Grazers Network matches experienced livestock, dairy, sheep and poultry producers with farmers who want to learn new grazing skills. The Maryland Agricultural Resource Council (MARC) and Accokeek Foundation provide classes and seminars for farmers. Maryland Agricultural Marketing Professionals  are advocates for new or expanding farming ventures and assist with farm business plans and marketing strategies.

Food safety is a growing concern in the U.S., and many major grocery chains are requiringGAP that farm products be certified safe through the institution of some form of Good Agricultural Practices (GAPs). Maryland Department of Agriculture is helping farmers meet existing GAP requirements and prepare for new ones through its Good Agricultural Practices/Good Handling Practices program.

For those who wish to grow organically, the Maryland Department of Agriculture provides its Certified Maryland Organic program.  The Maryland Department of Agriculture is a USDA accredited certifying agent for producers and handlers. Organic growers can also join the Maryland Organic Food and Farmers Association (MOFFA), a non-profit educational organization​​. MOFFA publishes a newsletter, holds workshops and events. At its annual meeting, you can hear from University of Maryland researchers on the latest crop research.

With a short blog, it is impossible to thoroughly cover all the ways that Marylanders are working to make the state a great place for new farmers. A more complete list of farm support organizations is on Maryland FarmLINK’s Organizations page. Suffice it to say that Maryland residents value the state’s long farming legacy and are working to keep it a vital industry into the future.

Next week we will discuss some work still in progress to make that vision a reality.

 

Posted in Farm Finance, Maryland zoning regulation, New Farmers, New Ideas in Farming, Organic farming, So. Maryland Topics, Sustainable Farmers, Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Recruiting new Maryland farmers!

 This is the first in a three-part series about recruiting new farmers.

Location

Maryland has great farm marketing potential for farm-to-table producers. In the realfarmersmarket.4 estate community, the three strategies for success have always been “Location, location, location”.  For farmers whose market approach is direct or secondary sales, the mantra should be the same. Farms closest to the consumer have the greatest advantage. The fastest growing agricultural markets in America have been direct-to-consumer food marketing, including locally sourced vegetables, fruits, eggs, meats, and dairy. According to the USDA report Local Food Systems, Concepts, Impacts, and Issues, direct-to-consumer sales of vegetables and melons grew 69% from 2002 to 2007. Direct-to-consumer sales of fruit and nuts grew 75% and direct-to-consumer meat sales grew 84% over the same period.

Farmers in Maryland are within or near the fourth largest metropolitan area in the country with the highest median income and highest level of education attainment. According to a 2010 Policy Choices Survey by the University of Baltimore Schaefer Center for Public Policy, 78% of Marylanders are more likely to buy produce that is identified as having been grown by a Maryland farmer.

Farmers benefit from being close to their customers in two ways. First, transportation costs are lower, and the advantage will increase in significance as fuel costs rise. Second, farmers who have a compelling story and who are known for raising healthy flavorful food delivered fresh to consumers can build a loyal clientele.

Soils and Climate

Maryland farmers also benefit from a temperate climate and average rainfall of 40+ inches and deep aquifers, particularly along the coastal plain. Soils types in most areas are suited to growing a wide variety of crops and many farmers are using high tunnels to stretch the seasons and available varieties even further.

rainfallMaryland is also a state of hundreds of micro-climates. From the Appalachian Mountains to the Atlantic Ocean, from rolling pastures and fields in Western Maryland to the coastal plain in Southern Maryland and Eastern Shore, from the thousands of streams, creeks and rivers that bifurcate the piedmont and delta soils come little ecosystems that are warmer, cooler, wetter, and drier than those in the rest of the region. For this reason, one can find the most northerly stands of cypress trees and the most southerly stands of hemlock trees in one county. One can find grapes, ginger, hops, bison, ostrich, maple syrup, and alpaca all grown commercially in Maryland.

So Maryland farmers have great proximity to markets and good soils, access to water, and climate conditions for growing a wide variety of crops. Next week, we will discuss the regulatory climate and and farmer support in Maryland.

 

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It is time to look at a Southern Maryland food hub

By Mindy Waite

farmermarketWhen the average American thinks about farming, they see picturesque fields, relaxed farmers picking baskets of fresh food, and happy customers browsing at farmers markets. They probably don’t see the amount of time and effort that goes into selling at market, nor do they understand that a market may not produce enough sales to support a farm family.

Of course, farmers have other marketing and distribution options. They can try to sell their product directly to restaurants and institutions (at either retail or wholesale prices), or they can sell wholesale to middlemen such as grocery stores, roadside stands, or even regional distributors. However, the process of marketing and transporting can be time-consuming and frustrating, and it takes the farmer away from food production!

In recent years, this issue of efficient, effective, and consistent distribution has beenfoodhub addressed by regional Food Hubs, which have become popular as a unique, value-driven form of regional distribution. They are unique in that their goal isn’t just to turn a profit, but also to pay fair prices to farmers, make healthy food available to families of all income levels, and provide farm and community services beyond food sales.

In February, I attended a conference on Food Hubs, and Food Hub managers talked about their experiences building their Hubs. Many of these managers pointed out how challenging it is to create a financially viable distribution business while holding strongly to the aforementioned values. They suggested working with already successful distributors before trying to build a Food Hub from the ground up. I thought this was a very interesting idea. What if, instead of putting in the immense amount of time, effort, and money to build a Southern Maryland Food Hub, I could simply connect our farmers with a local distribution company?

So I set about to do just that. I met with a well-known regional distributor who already has local sales in northern Maryland and DC and explained that I wanted Southern Maryland farmers to be included in their system, thereby giving our farmers a new sales outlet. The distributor was very excited about the idea and asked if we would help them identify farms potentially interested in this opportunity. However, the distributor indicated that the farmers needed their own transportation, had to have a reasonable amount of product, and had to be willing to sell wholesale.

cornSo off I went to cheerily call up farmers who had previously indicated a willingness to sell wholesale and who had products of current interest to the distributor. I ended up calling about 12 farms which met the wholesaler’s criteria. Of those farms, three responded positively to my call. The rest either said they were not interested or never called me back. If they said they weren’t interested, it was usually because they did not want to sell wholesale. Of the 3 who were interested, I put them in contact with the distributor, who immediately contacted the farms and started negotiating purchases. I sincerely hope this new marketing relationship eases the stress selling their products and contributes to their farm’s success.

I learned a lot from this experience. I now know that most farms in Southern Maryland are not at this time prepared to sell wholesale. They are not large enough to work with  regional for-profit distributors, and they would need time to plan their crops for wholesale markets, assuming they have land, labor, and desire to expand.

This is not unusual. As with other regions, it has been decades since there was an effective food distribution system in place for farmers in Southern Maryland. Despite the huge regional demand for locally-sourced produce, most farmers lack the ability to do it all–grow, market, and transport huge quantities of products for wholesale markets. Other food hubs found that the first step was to work with producers to determine their level of interest and their ability to grow into wholesale markets.

It takes time and patience. To me, this suggests that we need a distribution model tailored to fit our small, medium and large farms and consumer needs. Perhaps we need a value-focused regional distribution operation (i.e., a Food Hub) to be planned in tight collaboration with farmers and consumers to ensure it perfectly meets the needs and uses the strengths of our farm community. I’m not sure what form this operation would take, but SMADC has begun the planning to find out!

Posted in Farm Finance, Farmers Markets, food hubs, New Ideas in Farming, So. Maryland Topics, Uncategorized | 1 Comment

A farm region without farmers?

What would it be like to be a farm region without farmers?

Lindsey Lusher Shute

Lindsey Lusher Shute

A friend of mine recently directed me to a Tedx YouTube video of this dynamic young farmer, Lindsey Lusher Shute, who happens to be the Executive Director of the National Young Farmers Coalition.  In her talk, Building a Future with Farmers, Lindsey compared the revenue from her 25 acre vegetable farm with a corn operation which used to occupy the farm before she and her husband bought the land. Today, her vegetable farm generates over $425,000 and provides full or part-time work to nine residents, who also help stimulate the local economy by spending their money on local goods and services.

Lindsey said that if her farm were still a corn farm, it would earn about $25,000 and would generate about $750 in labor costs. Her message is that farms that sell farm products back to their local communities give back a whole lot more.

We need both commodity farms and non-commodity farms. After all, most of us consumefarm photos 006 corn, soybean, and wheat products. Without commodity crops in the last decade, most fields in Southern Maryland would have been empty.  However, a farming region with only commodity crops cannot support as many farmers.

I liken it to our family farm during my youth. We grew many more acres of corn, wheat, and rye than tobacco. Tobacco required much more labor, but it was the money crop. Without it, my uncle and father could not have farmed full-time.

The push for farmers to “get big or get out” did not originate with family farms. It was a movement that started with major agricultural businesses and was supported by federal policies in the early 1970s. In an interview with Curt Arens in 2007, former USDA Secretary Bob Bergland noted that, ”For as long as I can remember, farm legislation highlighted as a stated goal, to save the family farms. We found out commodity programs had just the opposite effect. The fewer larger farms received most of the income and the much larger number of family-sized and smaller farmers had little or none.” Nearly all Maryland farms are family-sized farms.

Chesapeake's Bounty

Chesapeake’s Bounty

Federal farm policy continues to adversely impact family farms today. Maryland agriculture needs  commodity farmers. It also needs table-crop farmers (produce, beverage, and meat producers) who sell locally and tap into the $26 Billion food budget of the residents in our metropolitan region. Let’s hope that the buy-local food movement can help to revitalize the farm economy and build a Future with Farmers. And lets hope that the new farm bill supports both commodity and table crop producers.

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A land access strategy for beginning farmers

beginning farmer.afIt never has been easy to start a farm. Even those who were bequeathed a fully operational and successful farm had to know what they were doing, where to find the resources, which markets to pursue, etc. to survive the first few years of farm ownership. Today, many people are drawn to the farming profession out of a passion to grow things or a desire to escape the corporate world. And they are determined to do so, even if they didn’t grow up on a farm or inherit land.

I addressed the challenges of land leasing in a recent post, so today I will focus on the challenges of land purchases for beginning farmers who did not inherit land.

As of 2011, farmland in Maryland was valued at three times the average price of land inChicago, community garden, farming 026 the nation according to the USDA. Maryland is part of a region where there is great competition for farmland, including residential development and commercial development. Even in ‘agricultural’ zoned areas, most counties still allow non-agricultural uses such as golf courses and parks, mega-churches, landfills, private residential estates, etc. In addition, open space purchased by governments to meet Bay water quality standards is often planted into forests and no longer usable for farming other than for timber production.

Size matters when it comes to land values. There is an inverse ratio between acreage and land value per acre. While there is a wide variation in land values per region, larger farms (300 acres +) tend to be worth $5,000 to $10,000 per acre, while small farms (<50 acres) tend to be worth $10,000 to $30,000+ per acre. Beginning farmers cannot benefit from the lower cost per acre of the larger tracts. The smaller tracts require annual mortgage payments of $15,000+ not counting the cost for buying an existing house or building a new one. Most beginning farmers make little or no profit the first few years and certainly cannot cover that type of mortgage expense.

beginningfarmersuccessFinally, there can be many hidden pitfalls when either leasing or purchasing a farm. For example, are the soils really suited to the type of operation that a new or beginning farmer wishes to pursue? Do county zoning regulations permit the type of farm operation? What about value-added sales of farm products or agri-tourism? And are there covenants, easements, or notes on recorded plats that limit the type of farm operation?

If beginning farmers are seeking to purchase land to start their enterprise, then they will need  a great deal of help for the reasons described above. To be seriously considered for a loan, a beginning farmer will need experience as a farm operator for a farm owner and business plan and resume. However, it is difficult to prove to lending organizations that a farm enterprise is viable and able to pay a mortgage unless the beginning farmer comes with strong financial resources or a good off-farm job.

SMADC is working with its partners in the Maryland Beginning Farmer Success Program to address all these issues. The goal is for beginning farmers to see a clear path to getting access to land.  We propose to do this by:

  • Increasing the number of postings of farms for sale on Maryland FarmLINK by working  more with landowners and the real estate community
  • Increasing posting of properties for lease by working with Extension, Soil Conservation Districts and the Maryland Farm Bureau to encourage farmers to post properties for lease
  • Identifying potential incubator farms and working with governments or nonprofits to manage them as places where beginning farmers can learn their trade.

Much is at stake. Today in the U.S., there are six times as many farmers 65 years and older than those 34 years or younger. We are losing experienced farmers at a time when the demand for locally-sourced food is on the increase. Add to that the fears of food insecurity and of global food shortages as the world population increases and arable soils are decreasing.

It is time to combat this loss of farmers by smoothing the path to farm leasing or ownership.

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Making the purchase of local foods an “act of affection”.

Knowledge does not automatically result in action. We know we should not eat certain foods. We know we should exercise more. And yet often we are not motivated to do what our brain tells us we should do.

On the other hand, we are sometimes motivated to do things that our brain would never approve. An example would be those who rushed toward the blast in Boston to rescue others out of concern, duty, and affection.

north beach farmers market 005

Joe-Sam Swann at North Beach Farmers Market

For many consumers, purchasing local food may begin as an act of knowledge. We have heard national food recalls, we fear mad cow disease, etc., and we want to know more about how our food is raised. The act of purchasing local food may also come out of curiosity. We hear that a certain farmers’ market is a pleasurable experience and we decide to try it out. We may even buy from a local farmer because we have learned that local food purchases help the local economy. But what brings us back to the farmers’ market, the CSA, the farm stand, is an act of affection.

Twentieth century philosopher said that “To settle in a place is to accept the responsibility for creating it.” In a society where most people move every five years, it is harder to find people willing to accept a role in the place where they live. Most are consumers of community services, not builders of community. However, the desire to belong and to be part of a vibrant caring community is strong in most people. Within that desire lies room for affection.

hatsThose in our community who have chosen to supply food to the table realize the high start-up costs, the challenges of weather, the competition by industrial and foreign competitors, and lack of viable insurance protection. Many are drawn to farming to witness the miracle of the seed, to spend their days tending farm animals, to work outdoors, and to work independently. Those who stick with it, do it out of affection for their farm, for their family, and for their customers.

When we don’t settle in a community, we don’t know most of the people. When my dad was growing up in Calvert County, he said that if he went to Prince Frederick and he didn’t recognize someone, he would ask who it was. That is no longer the case. When I go to Prince Frederick, I am pleased if I recognize more than a few people at the big stores. it all turns on affectionHowever, when I go to the mom and pop stores, the roadside stands, and the North Beach Farmers Market, it feels like old home week. Farmers need to be able to tell their stories, such as why they farm and the way they farm, so that customers can get to know them. At farmers’ markets, CSA pickups, and roadside stands, farmers can greet their customers, share a smile and a handshake, and perhaps chat. Fortunately, there are also many forms of social media that can help complete the “stories”, such as websites, facebook, blogs, and twitter feeds.

Locally sourced food is fresher. Farmers can grow varieties  for flavor rather than shelf life. Buying locally sourced food creates jobs and helps the local economy. However, farmer success is based on community support and affection! And, quoting Wendell Berry,  ”It is in affection that we find the possibility of a neighborly, kind, and conserving economy.”

Posted in Farmers Markets, food hubs, New Farmers, New Ideas in Farming, So. Maryland Topics, Sustainable Farmers, Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Country boy finds a “locally-sourced” food network in downtown Chicago

chicago and APA conference 014Each year, the American Planning Association holds its annual conference in a different city. Having heard of the work of several urban farming groups in Chicago and nearby Milwaukee, I perused the conference program in the hope that it would include sessions in local food production and distribution. Finding no less than 5 such sessions, I put up my hard earned dollars to visit the windy city. Chicago lived up to its reputation. When I arrived, the late morning temperatures last Saturday were in the low 40′s and the wind made it feel like the 20s.

Despite the weather, downtown Chicago is a planner’s dream. It is attractive, functional, inspirational, and it retains its cultural heritage. At the turn of the 20th century, famed Chicago planner Daniel Burnham said “Make no little plans; they have no magic to stir men’s blood and probably themselves will not be realized. Make big plans; aim high in hope and work.”  His work in the 1893 World’s Columbian Exposition inspired the City Beautiful Movement.  And beautiful high rises bearing his name still dot the famous towntown “loop”.

On our first night there, my wife and I sought out one of Burnham’s ornate buildings to find

The Attwood Cafe

The Attwood Cafe

a restaurant called the Attwood Cafe which proudly serves locally-source food. The meal and setting were worth the long cold walk from our hotel.

During the session entitled Urban Agriculture and Community Development/ Revitalization, Orrin Williams of the Center for Urban Transformation spoke of the possibility that 50% of the metropolitan region’s food could come from food sources in the seven counties surrounding Chicago. That, too, is a bold vision worth pursuing. Recently, Chicago press announced the opening of the largest indoor vertical farm (see image below) in Chicago. No ‘small plans’ indeed!

In the various sessions, planners pointed out the necessity of working toward increased food self-sufficiency within regions. With aquifers declining, energy costs increasing, major droughts persisting, and a predicted world population of 9 billion, experts are wondering where the food will come from. Planners mentioned food shortages in major cities just after 9/11, when rail and truck transportation stopped for just a short while.

I attended sessions such as Building Local Capacity to Promote Food Access, Urban Agriculture and Community Development/Revitalization, Planning for Local Food Production, and Food Logistics and Transportation. These topics may be covered in more detail over the next few weeks.

farmedhere in Chicago

Beyond all the practical reasons for towns and cities to promote food security, I found broad enthusiasm in Chicago for the local food movement. The conference reinforced my belief that the local food movement is growing because people see this as one concrete way to show their love of the earth and their communities, while at the same time eating more flavorful food. Food that did not sit on a truck or a boat for days or weeks and then get artificially ripened before it reaches the store.

 

 

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Walking-the-walk toward a new ag economy

A new survey compares states in their commitment to raising and eating locally grown vermont imagefood. Vermont ranks #1 and Maryland ranks #39. The survey uses data from government sources (principally USDA and US Census data) from 2010 and 2011. The Locavore Index measures the number of Community-Supported Agricultural enterprises and Farmers Markets per-capita, each of which “is an indication of both the availability and demand for locally-produced food”. Of course, it would be nice to compare actual farm purchases per capita, but such data isn’t available nationwide. However, these resources are a nice simple measure of level of support for farm sales to consumers.

The survey points out that Vermont is doing many things well, despite its long winters and short summers. It also points out that Maryland has room for improvement in developing market sites for direct-to-consumer retail on a per-capita basis. But that is not the only way that local food can be made available to eager consumers. Local restaurants, grocery stores, and institutions (such as schools, hospitals, and nursing homes) can provide good ‘secondary’ markets for local farmers.

These secondary markets require a good food distribution system and willing institutions. One of the common refrains in Maryland is that while schools could be a good market for local farm goods, they are closed during the summer when farm production is at its peak. However, a followup article from the Brattleboro Reformer notes that schools, hospitals, and nursing homes are all doing a good job of sourcing local food from their kitchens.

vermont.farm.to.plateVermont has placed a high priority on developing its local food industry and has adopted a Farm to Plate Strategic Plan. The forward reads: “The Farm to Plate Strategic Plan links Vermont’s agricultural history and entrepreneurial spirit with a forward-looking plan for a strengthened local economy. It provides our state with a road map to new jobs and increased market share as well as improved physical, environmental and economic health. By working together to implement this Plan, we will grow our economy, maintain our working landscape, and strengthen our communities.”  Signed by the governor and broadly endorsed by major business and agricultural groups, it provides a template for success.

Many states should acknowledge the jobs and economic development potential of a strong local food industry and develop a farm to plate strategy plan. At the local level, those of us who believe in the benefits of local foods systems, should ‘walk-the-walk’ by supporting our local CSAs, farmers markets, wineries, breweries, and distilleries, and restaurants and grocery stores who source/sell local products whenever we have the opportunity.

Quoting Wendell Berry, “As you shorten the distance between the consumer and producer, you increase the consumer’s power to know and influence the quality of food.” You also increase the economic capacity and well-being of your community with each purchase!

 

 

 

Posted in Farmers Markets, food hubs, National Ag News, New Farmers, New Ideas in Farming, So. Maryland Topics, Sustainable Farmers, Uncategorized | Leave a comment